Lulek’s Lesson #3
What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?
If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.
1. Body Language
2. Foot Placement
3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio
Last week we talked about foot placement. This week we’ll discuss Steve’s third most important skill: Strength-to-Weight Ration
OK, perhaps this isn’t a skill…but the fact is, at some point, you need to approach climbing like you’re training. That means, as much fun as it is to simply climbing, you’ll have to push your limits and develop more strength. There are several ways to do this, and the best part is, you should also be able to use a good training program to lose weight! Think about it- the best climbers are in amazing shape.
One way to train to gain climbing strength without a partner is to attack boulder problems. We’ve recently put up a bunch of these, which don’t require a rope. Simply find a problem that you can comfortably climb, and repeat it until failure. Take a break, recover, then come back and do it again. Try several different boulder problems, but make sure that you can climb them- there’s no sense in practicing above your level.
Another way is to build strength is “triple pyramids” and these require a partner. Begin 2-3 grades below your maximum climb level. For instance, if you’re maximum comfortable climbing level is 5.9, find a 5.6 climb. Climb the route three times in succession. You should be tired when finished! After your partner takes her turn, climb a 5.7 three times. Then a 5.8, again three times. After a rest, climb another 5.7 three times, then a 5.6 three final times. If you’re like me, you’ll be exhausted after this pyramid! That’s good, it’s building strength!
Next time we’ll talk about grip strength and using the finger board
Come in and train with us!
I love Lulek’s lessons; especially body language. I cannot
think how many times I ‘ve also tried to help my climbing partners
“trust” their feet! Thank you!