Lulek’s Lesson #2
What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?
If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.
1. Body Language
2. Foot Placement
3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio
Last week we talked about body language. This week we’ll discuss Steve’s second most important skill: foot placement.
“You only find what you’re looking for. We’re talking about climbing here, not life” Lulek says with a grin. Then he scampers up one of his warm up climbs – Rainy Day, a gorgeous 5.9 on rope 3 in the gym. Every step of the way, his foot lands on its target hold quietly and purposefully. There is no searching or feeling around as Steve simply looks down at his feet as he places them. “A good climber,” he continues as I lower him to the ground, “looks down at their feet as much as they look up the climb.”
One easy way to practice foot placement in the rock gym is to down-climb. Once you’ve reached the top of a climb, proceed with your normal lower command sequence, but don’t weight the rope, try to climb down using the same holds. You’ll be forced to look for foot placements, which is a great habit. Be sure to discuss the plan with your belayer before you attempt down-climbing as they’ll need to be attentive.
Another method of practicing better foot placement is with bells. That’s right twinkle toes, ask at the desk for some bells. Tie them to your shoes and boulder or climb with a partner. The goal is no noise from the bells. Zero. It’s a lofty goal, but one to shoot for! You’ll find yourself being much more careful with your feet…mostly so other climbers don’t notice that you have bells on your shoes.
Next time we’ll talk about strength-to-weight ratio; which reminds me…where did I leave my ice cream?
Until then, get in here work on your foot placement – you’ll be glad you did!
