Lulek’s Lesson #1

Posted: December 9, 2010 in Uncategorized

Lulek’s Lesson

What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?

 

If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.

 

1. Body Language

2. Foot Placement

3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio

 

Body Language is the way we move in and out of balance on climbs by using our bodies.  For new climbers, it’s like learning to speak- sometimes jerky and forced and occasionally awkward.  For experienced climbers, it’s like poetry.  When climbing, think of your body language.  You should constantly move out of, but more importantly back into balance over your feet.  Like talking and listening, you’ll need to do both.  Try to keep your hips over one foot or another and generally close to the wall.  If you must push away from the wall with one leg, make sure that you’re pulling back towards it with an arm.  Always trying to go to a balanced position, with relaxed and poetic body language.

 

There are two easy ways to practice better body language here at GMRCC.  The first requires a partner to belay you: one armed climbing.  The challenge is just like it sounds- use only one arm when climbing, but both feet of course!  By not being able to rely on your arms for strength, you’ll be forced to mind your center and keep it balance over one foot or the other- or both.  Try it!

 

The second method of practicing better body language is boulder around the gym- the outside or the pillars, using as few hand holds as possible.  Try going around a pillar using only 10 holds for your hand.  Now try 8.  How about 6?  You get the idea.  It’ll be all about your body language and not about your hands!

 

Next time we’ll talk about foot placement.  Until then, get in here and try to be poetry in motion.

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Comments
  1. Justin says:

    Great ideas! Thanks for sharing, looking forward to the
    next trip to the rock gym!

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