Grand opening at Quechee, trying to expand the school sport concept
Lulek’s Lesson #4: Grip Strength
| Continuing our series of tips from Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school, this week we’ll look at grip strength.
Technique rather than strength is king in climbing, but who has perfect technique all the time? No one we know! As much as we hate to admit it, strength is critical to climbing as well. Specifically, grip strength can help propel your climbing to the next level. To test your grip strength, come on in to the Climbing Center and try out “Pinchy the Crab” a fun but pinchy 5.9 climb. The best way to build grip strength is to work on our campus board wall, at the end of the bouldering cave. For starters, just hang out. Climb up to 2 even campus blocks and hang. Let your feet dangle and just hang until you can’t any longer. Rest for a minute, then repeat. Rest for a minute then repeat (that’s three ties total). Do this at the end of your climbing session for a week or two. The next step towards increasing your grip strength- reach ups. Go back up the campus wall and hang with both hands from one block for 15 seconds. Reach your right hand out to the right and up to the maximum of your reach. Hang for 15 seconds. Return your right hand and then do the same reach out with your left hand, hanging for 15 seconds. Repeat until failure and then rest for a minute. Do this three times. As it gets easier, increase your hanging intervals to 30, 45 or even 60 seconds! If you’re keeping track, so far Lulek’s Lessons have covered: 1. Body Language 2. Foot Placement 3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio 4. Grip Strength |
Our newest program for the New Year- a fitness program that is creative, fun and anything but ordinary! Join us for climbing, creative core training, body and grip strength training and a workout that is the polar opposite of dull and boring.
Intro Level
6 weeks, one class per week
Begins: 1/11/2011
When: Tuesdays 5:00 – 6:00 PM
Member Price: $30
Non-member Price: $60
An intro to the basics of climbing and total body fitness. Participants in this class will combine climbing and bouldering (ropeless climbing relatively close to the ground) with cardio, core work and activities that utilize one’s own body as resistance. Get ready to work hard and sweat while having a great time with retired military drill instructor and professional guide Steve Lulek. Variety and fun in exercise make this class anything but a traditional workout.
Register now Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center
Performance Level
8 weeks, 2 classes per week
When: 5:30 PM – 6:30 PM Mondays and Thursdays
Begins: 1/10/2011
Member Price: $50
Non-member Price: $100
For those who consider themselves fit, but have areas of performance or body areas they would like to tone or strengthen. Participants in this class will combine climbing and bouldering (ropeless climbing relatively close to the ground) with cardio, core work and activities that utilize one’s own body as resistance. This class will make you earn it! Get ready to work hard and sweat while having a great time with retired military drill instructor and professional guide Steve Lulek. Variety and fun in exercise make this class anything but a traditional workout.
Register now Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center by calling 802-773-3343
Lulek’s Lesson #3
What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?
If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.
1. Body Language
2. Foot Placement
3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio
Last week we talked about foot placement. This week we’ll discuss Steve’s third most important skill: Strength-to-Weight Ration
OK, perhaps this isn’t a skill…but the fact is, at some point, you need to approach climbing like you’re training. That means, as much fun as it is to simply climbing, you’ll have to push your limits and develop more strength. There are several ways to do this, and the best part is, you should also be able to use a good training program to lose weight! Think about it- the best climbers are in amazing shape.
One way to train to gain climbing strength without a partner is to attack boulder problems. We’ve recently put up a bunch of these, which don’t require a rope. Simply find a problem that you can comfortably climb, and repeat it until failure. Take a break, recover, then come back and do it again. Try several different boulder problems, but make sure that you can climb them- there’s no sense in practicing above your level.
Another way is to build strength is “triple pyramids” and these require a partner. Begin 2-3 grades below your maximum climb level. For instance, if you’re maximum comfortable climbing level is 5.9, find a 5.6 climb. Climb the route three times in succession. You should be tired when finished! After your partner takes her turn, climb a 5.7 three times. Then a 5.8, again three times. After a rest, climb another 5.7 three times, then a 5.6 three final times. If you’re like me, you’ll be exhausted after this pyramid! That’s good, it’s building strength!
Next time we’ll talk about grip strength and using the finger board
Come in and train with us!
Lulek’s Lesson #2
What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?
If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.
1. Body Language
2. Foot Placement
3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio
Last week we talked about body language. This week we’ll discuss Steve’s second most important skill: foot placement.
“You only find what you’re looking for. We’re talking about climbing here, not life” Lulek says with a grin. Then he scampers up one of his warm up climbs – Rainy Day, a gorgeous 5.9 on rope 3 in the gym. Every step of the way, his foot lands on its target hold quietly and purposefully. There is no searching or feeling around as Steve simply looks down at his feet as he places them. “A good climber,” he continues as I lower him to the ground, “looks down at their feet as much as they look up the climb.”
One easy way to practice foot placement in the rock gym is to down-climb. Once you’ve reached the top of a climb, proceed with your normal lower command sequence, but don’t weight the rope, try to climb down using the same holds. You’ll be forced to look for foot placements, which is a great habit. Be sure to discuss the plan with your belayer before you attempt down-climbing as they’ll need to be attentive.
Another method of practicing better foot placement is with bells. That’s right twinkle toes, ask at the desk for some bells. Tie them to your shoes and boulder or climb with a partner. The goal is no noise from the bells. Zero. It’s a lofty goal, but one to shoot for! You’ll find yourself being much more careful with your feet…mostly so other climbers don’t notice that you have bells on your shoes.
Next time we’ll talk about strength-to-weight ratio; which reminds me…where did I leave my ice cream?
Until then, get in here work on your foot placement – you’ll be glad you did!
Lulek’s Lesson
What are the 3 most important skills for better rock climbing?
If you read 5 different climbing books, you’ll get 5 different answers, but here’s the word according to Steve Lulek, owner of Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center and Vermont Adventure Tours and 11 year lead instructor for the US Military’s mountaineering school.
1. Body Language
2. Foot Placement
3. Strength-to-Weight Ratio
Body Language is the way we move in and out of balance on climbs by using our bodies. For new climbers, it’s like learning to speak- sometimes jerky and forced and occasionally awkward. For experienced climbers, it’s like poetry. When climbing, think of your body language. You should constantly move out of, but more importantly back into balance over your feet. Like talking and listening, you’ll need to do both. Try to keep your hips over one foot or another and generally close to the wall. If you must push away from the wall with one leg, make sure that you’re pulling back towards it with an arm. Always trying to go to a balanced position, with relaxed and poetic body language.
There are two easy ways to practice better body language here at GMRCC. The first requires a partner to belay you: one armed climbing. The challenge is just like it sounds- use only one arm when climbing, but both feet of course! By not being able to rely on your arms for strength, you’ll be forced to mind your center and keep it balance over one foot or the other- or both. Try it!
The second method of practicing better body language is boulder around the gym- the outside or the pillars, using as few hand holds as possible. Try going around a pillar using only 10 holds for your hand. Now try 8. How about 6? You get the idea. It’ll be all about your body language and not about your hands!
Next time we’ll talk about foot placement. Until then, get in here and try to be poetry in motion.
Football, soccer, basketball, field hockey, baseball, softball and ice hockey. These are real sports, right? Training, practice, sacrifice and perseverance are rewarded on game day. Team work and preparation rule the day. So…is climbing a sport?
Ask the student athletes of the Mill River, Otter Valley, Long Trail School, Rutland, Burr and Burton, West Rutland and Proctor Climbing Teams and you’ll hear a resounding “YES!” Middle and high school students from these areas have been practicing for weeks, preparing for the first competitions of the season tomorrow night, Wednesday 11/17 at 4:00 PM and 6:00 PM respectively.
The kids have been climbing, doing crunches, pull-ups, bouldering, practicing and generally getting after it. Come and watch as they score points for climbs based on difficulty. This is the first of five competitions, one Wednesday of every month. Stay tuned for detals!
-KC @ Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center
On my quest of health, I challenge you to do my workouts or equal them. Every month or two will be a culminating event. First one began in August, to bike Vermont in two days on September 11 & 12. Today is a rest day because tomorrow I’ll be participating in a 6 hour/30 mile mountain bike race in Pittsfield, VT. (Today rock climb 300ft and stack 2 chords of wood )
Bikram Yoga in Pittsfield, VT
Posted: February 26, 2010 in YogaTags: bikram, climb, pittsfield, Yoga
Bikram Yoga is great for climbers, for many reasons, such as, it allows you to open up your joints, it helps you increase your flexibility, it increases strength, builds endurance and improves balance because of the movements and the heat.
The Extreme Climbing Team at GMRCC traveled to Pittsfield Bikram Yoga for an amazing session. The comments on the van ride home were “that was exhausting”…”it was hot and rewarding”. The comments the next day and after that were, “it helped me move up to the next level in climbing”
The climbing grading system allows for a climber to choose a climb that is challenging and within their ability level. The grading or rating system first came about in the the 1920s in Britain and Germany by a man named Willo Welzenbach.The system was mainly used for the alps. In 1937, a modified Welzenbach rating system was introduced to the United States as the Sierra Club System. In the 1950s, the system was modified again to better refect the climbing being done at Tahquitz Rock in California by adding a decimal to the class 5 rating. This system is known as the Yosimite Decimal System (YDS). This system was originally 5.0 – 5.9. In the 1960s, with the sport growing and equipment improving the the numbers began to expand to where we are today at 5.15.
